San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina

I returned to Buenos Aires in September after spending an enjoyable month in Cordoba at the foot of the Sierras in Central Argentina. The month passed quickly as it typically does when you're surrounded by events in a city of eleven million. But it was late in the year, my visa was closing in on expiration and it was time to head north for Christmas. Uruguay was a short 45 minute ferry ride across the estuary so this made the most sense, especially with its capital city on my list. I had plans to spend a month but I had to cut it short after receiving a message from my sublet in San Francisco informing me she was forced into an unexpected departure due to a family emergency. Not ideal. So, ten days in Montevideo was followed by a long flight north. Two weeks in San Francisco, then off to Minnesota for the Christmas season.

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My return to Argentina began in Buenos Aires during the second week in January, but only as a jump station for a preferred destination in Patagonia. Last years visit to the region made a mark so it became a priority when planning this years itinerary. Bariloche was my first choice of residency but cost prohibitive due to its international attraction during the high season of February. Fortunately, I identified and secured an affordable cabin about ten kilometers outside the city which provided walkable access to the regions main attractions, Lake Haupi Nauphu and Lake Gutierrez. Fortuitously, this accommodation was not available until the second week of my arrival so I opted for a week in El Bolson, an old hippie town that sits in a pocket of open space between the Andes Range a couple hours south. Its a dramatic setting that's revealed after traveling along Argentinas famous Highway 40 through mountains and forests of Northern Patagonia. As one would expect, the town is organic, slow growth and although slightly touristy, rooted within its regional ethos. Definitely worth a visit.

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When my cabin became available, I returned north. Initially, it appeared I had made an error in judgement given its remote location but after exploring the area in greater depth it became clear this was an ideal spot to spend a month. Aside from a matrix of trails available within immediate reach of my door, a nearby bus stop provided access to the entire valley.

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San Carlos de Bariloche is the largest city and capital of Rio Negro Province in Southern Argentina. Its sits along the crystal clear waters of Lake Haupi Nauphu in view of the Andes range to the west. The city was originally founded by German immigrants who had established a presence in neighboring Chile during the later decades of the 19th century. Architecturally, their influence is apparent throughout with much of the style, material and construction reflecting Europe's Bavarian region. Tourism is the primary driver of Bariloche´s economy but the real attraction lies outside of the cities limits along the shores of its lakes and in the forests of its mountains. The views and vistas of this area are stunning, accessible and plentiful. Almost surreal in photographic form. And summer time weather is a ideal for hiking long distances.

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This is a beautiful corner of the world that blends old Europe with South American traditions, native influence and nature at its extreme end of beauty. If the greater Bariloche region was located along the northern bulb of South America, it would easily surpass Machu Pichu as the most visited destination, especially for the North American travellor. Unfortunately, its at the opposite end of the continent requiring a few legs of travel. Is it worth it? No doubt. Alaska may be closer but you wont find the same degree of climates variation, glacial landscapes and crystal clear lakes that attract so many to Northern and Southern Patagonia. Put it on your list!