Medellin, Colombia
September 11 - September 26 [2021]
Medellin was not part of my original planning. Although it ranked high on a list possible visits, it was at best, an option on my return north from Chile, Argentina and Uraquay. Unfortunately, Chile has prohibited all foreigners from entering so I had to pivot. My choice-Bolivia or Colombia. La Paz, Bolivia was the obvious choice given its proximity to Arequipa but it came at a cost. One, a $200 visa with strict covid testing requirements and two, expensive flights out with minimal destination options. Columbia required no Covid testing to enter so the choice became a no brainer.
Climatically, Medellin is very different from my previous stops and the first time I’ve encountered heat/humidity in four months. Although the city resides at high elevation (5000 feet above sea level) in a valley within the Andean range, it’s considered subtropical and therefore prone to muggy days with minimal breezes. Aptly known as the 'City of Eternal Spring', Medellin experiences periodic rainfall throughout the year that keeps temperatures within a reasonable range for its four million inhabitants.
Medellin also represents my first glimpse of homelessness since I arrived on the continent in April. Paradoxically, the city is a shining example of what’s possible when applying useful and progressive transportation infrastructure within an urban context that’s pedestrian friendly. This includes light rail, a sophisticated bus system, bike lanes, cable cars (accessing hillside barrios) and even outdoor escalators. In fact, Medellin’s infrastructure rivals most American cities and holds its own or exceeds many European counterparts. Unfortunately, like many countries adopting the neo-liberal economic model of concentrated and selected wealth allocation, they’ve ignored the homeless poor and therefore, tainted an impressive model that's the subject of international study.
Essentially, Medellin is a modern city in the Colombian Andes that showcases innovative technology and planning but falls short on the historic structures I’ve been fortunate to observe and photograph during my previous visits. That’s not to say there’s nothing of interest here, it’s just a different aesthetic with another focus.
One other note of importance that had a significant impact on my time in Medellin and an issue that merits discussion. My Airbnb apartment was misrepresented and close to inhabitable given the excessive night time noise blasting from nearby bars and restaurants. Up to now, my experience with Airbnd has been positive with very few surprises. I do my best to vet each and every location but many hosts would rather speak half truths after realizing someone is looking to stay 2-4 weeks at a time. It’s wrong, problematic and unfortunately casts a shadow over the City you’ve come to discover. As the old saying goes, “penny wise, pound foolish”.